A Bit About Bonding
We all know how rabbits love to snuggle up with their friends and rabbits naturally in the wild live in big groups called Warrens. Rabbits domestically should always be kept together in pairs or groups for their health and wellbeing.
Having more than one rabbit which aren't bonded living in the same property is extremely stressful for them and for you. Instead of having multiple bonded pairs, it is best to have them bonded all together as one group. Happier for them, less stressful for you.
ALL rabbits can be bonded regardless of age, breed, sex etc. That does not mean it is easy however! It takes time, patience and the right method for that individual rabbit. Myths online should be read with caution and often cause more harm than good. Complex cases should be handled by a behaviourist who has a deep knowledge and understanding of rabbit behaviour and psychology. Domestic rabbit behaviour always comes back to a fundamental understanding of the species, Oryctolagus cuniculus.
If you are struggling, a solution is to bring your rabbits somewhere like ourselves who can bond them for you therefore relieving the parent of the time and stress involved. Additionally, with it being both a neutral person and place there are less territorial behaviours and there is no risk of humanising behaviours or emotional attachment. It can be difficult for a bun parent to watch their own rabbits displaying certain behaviours and this can put people off, often giving up after the first or second try.
There is NO such thing as "my rabbit won't bond/doesn't like other rabbits/likes to be on his own".
Having more than one rabbit which aren't bonded living in the same property is extremely stressful for them and for you. Instead of having multiple bonded pairs, it is best to have them bonded all together as one group. Happier for them, less stressful for you.
ALL rabbits can be bonded regardless of age, breed, sex etc. That does not mean it is easy however! It takes time, patience and the right method for that individual rabbit. Myths online should be read with caution and often cause more harm than good. Complex cases should be handled by a behaviourist who has a deep knowledge and understanding of rabbit behaviour and psychology. Domestic rabbit behaviour always comes back to a fundamental understanding of the species, Oryctolagus cuniculus.
If you are struggling, a solution is to bring your rabbits somewhere like ourselves who can bond them for you therefore relieving the parent of the time and stress involved. Additionally, with it being both a neutral person and place there are less territorial behaviours and there is no risk of humanising behaviours or emotional attachment. It can be difficult for a bun parent to watch their own rabbits displaying certain behaviours and this can put people off, often giving up after the first or second try.
There is NO such thing as "my rabbit won't bond/doesn't like other rabbits/likes to be on his own".
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Our Bonding Service
We offer a bonding service for those wanting to bond two rabbits or a whole group. We do not take a typical 'bonder approach' here, instead we take a purely behavioural approach.
We also offer a case by case phone consultation service with our behaviourist for people who are unable to send their rabbits for bonding or who would like advice on their rabbits behaviour or advice to help them do their own bonding. (please visit the consultation page for more info)
We have been helping bond all varieties of rabbits for many years and have a 100% success rate. We specialise in Rabbit Psychology, Behaviour and Training and are extremely passionate about animal behaviour. We study and analyse your rabbits behaviour to use the best method for them and assess things case by case. We specialise in extreme cases, rabbits with behavioural issues and large group bondings. Our largest group bonding we have undertaken was a group of 36.
We have bonded some of the hardest cases in the UK and people travel to us from all over the UK and Europe for bonding.
We do NOT recommend stress bonding techniques such as being put inside a carrier in the car or spraying them with water, these are harmful to your rabbits mental wellbeing and can cause tension triggers. The whole process we use has your rabbits best interests and wellbeing in mind. They are closely monitored throughout including regular weigh ins as the process can be stressful for them at times.
We will NOT do any bondings in less than two weeks. Anyone who tells you your rabbits will be bonded in less than two weeks is putting your rabbits at risk. It takes a minimum of 2-4 weeks for your rabbits to go through the initial hierarchal stages of bonding and have their bond strengthened in order to be able to return home. Some rabbits will take far longer. We can have rabbits stay with us for many months while we work through behavioural issues.
We then support the owner once they have taken their rabbits back home as there will still be steps to take in order to strengthen their bond once home. Post bond care is just as important as when the rabbits stay with us. Support is given after the rabbits return home and plans are written up specific to each case.
We also offer a case by case phone consultation service with our behaviourist for people who are unable to send their rabbits for bonding or who would like advice on their rabbits behaviour or advice to help them do their own bonding. (please visit the consultation page for more info)
We have been helping bond all varieties of rabbits for many years and have a 100% success rate. We specialise in Rabbit Psychology, Behaviour and Training and are extremely passionate about animal behaviour. We study and analyse your rabbits behaviour to use the best method for them and assess things case by case. We specialise in extreme cases, rabbits with behavioural issues and large group bondings. Our largest group bonding we have undertaken was a group of 36.
We have bonded some of the hardest cases in the UK and people travel to us from all over the UK and Europe for bonding.
We do NOT recommend stress bonding techniques such as being put inside a carrier in the car or spraying them with water, these are harmful to your rabbits mental wellbeing and can cause tension triggers. The whole process we use has your rabbits best interests and wellbeing in mind. They are closely monitored throughout including regular weigh ins as the process can be stressful for them at times.
We will NOT do any bondings in less than two weeks. Anyone who tells you your rabbits will be bonded in less than two weeks is putting your rabbits at risk. It takes a minimum of 2-4 weeks for your rabbits to go through the initial hierarchal stages of bonding and have their bond strengthened in order to be able to return home. Some rabbits will take far longer. We can have rabbits stay with us for many months while we work through behavioural issues.
We then support the owner once they have taken their rabbits back home as there will still be steps to take in order to strengthen their bond once home. Post bond care is just as important as when the rabbits stay with us. Support is given after the rabbits return home and plans are written up specific to each case.
From our behavioural specialist:
What is involved when rabbits come to stay with me here for external bonding:
• Full health assessments are undertaken to ensure the rabbits are in good health or to identify areas that need addressed or worked on such as diet, weight management or health concerns which may have been missed. This continues throughout the rabbits stay with me to ensure that they are in tip top shape. If rabbits have special needs, bloods can be taken throughout the process to check EC levels for example or urine/fecal samples taken. Rabbits are weighed throughout also to watch for weight changes. Plans can be created to go home with including mobility management and diet plans.
• Assessments are done on each rabbit to determine any behavioural issues and to identify the temperaments of the rabbits I am working with. This allows me to create a personalised plan for bonding the rabbits in question once I know what the rabbits dynamic will look like once bonded.
• I work individually with each rabbit and throughout the bonding process the buns are continually supervised, indoors in my home on a floor that no other rabbits have access to. There are infection control perspex bonding pens for rabbits with contagions such as Pasturella, etc. The room is temperature controlled to suit whatever the rabbits are used to at home and there is a built in nebuliser into the bonding area for rabbits being bonded with respiratory issues.
• Under no circumstances would I use "stress" techniques which do not only prolong the inevitable of a hierarchical process but also create stress and behavioural problems such as defense aggression.
• I take the pace of the rabbits on a case by case basis, allowing them adequate time to have moved through the main bonding stages and be stable and strong enough before going home. This could take many weeks or many months depending on whether there are behavioural issues needing worked on.
• Behavioural reports are sent and along with video footage and photos explaining and interpreting the rabbits behaviour throughout the process. The owner is also educated and given a much deeper insight into their rabbits behaviour and dynamic so that they can better understand the communication between their rabbits.
• A specific plan is created for the owners to take home with their rabbits and support is given as much as possible once they go home to help the rabbits continue to strengthen and grow together in their new pairings/groups. It is as much about the support post bond as it is about while they are with me, often more so.
Bringing your rabbits to myself as an external client for behavioural work or bonding is often a last resort for many owners. They may be referred to myself by their vet or find me online. When it comes to external cases (those who have their own rabbits and are not going through the adoption process and matching service with us at the rescue), I take on the most extreme cases, preferably rabbits that no one else has managed to bond or those classed by humans as "unbondable). If someone has a relatively "straightforward" case, I will often suggest that they approach a bonder elsewhere to send them off to, as my waiting list is very long and I am here to work with really difficult cases. I specialise in complex behavioural issues and large group bondings and would prefer not to take on many "easy" cases when there are those who have such problematic buns that they cannot find help for. When your buns come to me, they aren't coming for bonding, they are coming for full behavioural evaluation and a behavioural approach, not a bonding one. Much like the difference between dog behaviourists and trainers, behavioural work involves far more than just an "instant fix". As an owner, when choosing where and to who to send your rabbits, there are many different approaches and methods/experiences and it is up to you to find one that fits your "vibe". If sending your buns to me, you can guarantee they will go home "bonded" but you can also guarantee it won't be in a week. The average external client travels 5 hours to me for their case, with the furthest clients travelling to me from Hong Kong with their rabbits. I will take on cases of any size, any issue - the more complex the better!
If you have some buns you would like help with bonding, sometimes no matter how straightforward the case is, the owner is just too anxious or worried and can't cope watching the process, then reach out to people who bond and get some help and support. Some rescues will take them and help start things off for you. If you feel you can do it yourself at home, amazing! If you have the time, dedication, neutral space indoors and can understand watching their behaviour and be able to take a step back then you can absolutely help your rabbits to bond.
I also offer consultations and remote bonding, (also available via referral or online) for those who would like to do it themselves but need the knowledge and tools to understand their rabbits behaviour and what type of buns they have, how to step in or when not to. This is a great option for those with straightforward cases who would be perfectly capable of managing their own bonding, but just need the guidance and coaching through it.
Never feel that your rabbits are past the point of being able to be helped or bonded, this is never the case. Rabbit behaviour is extremely complex, but knowledge is power and your rabbits will always be happier bonded with their own kind. Rabbits are still so misunderstood and there are many misconceptions and myths that only put road blocks in your rabbits way. As always, think like a rabbit!
• Full health assessments are undertaken to ensure the rabbits are in good health or to identify areas that need addressed or worked on such as diet, weight management or health concerns which may have been missed. This continues throughout the rabbits stay with me to ensure that they are in tip top shape. If rabbits have special needs, bloods can be taken throughout the process to check EC levels for example or urine/fecal samples taken. Rabbits are weighed throughout also to watch for weight changes. Plans can be created to go home with including mobility management and diet plans.
• Assessments are done on each rabbit to determine any behavioural issues and to identify the temperaments of the rabbits I am working with. This allows me to create a personalised plan for bonding the rabbits in question once I know what the rabbits dynamic will look like once bonded.
• I work individually with each rabbit and throughout the bonding process the buns are continually supervised, indoors in my home on a floor that no other rabbits have access to. There are infection control perspex bonding pens for rabbits with contagions such as Pasturella, etc. The room is temperature controlled to suit whatever the rabbits are used to at home and there is a built in nebuliser into the bonding area for rabbits being bonded with respiratory issues.
• Under no circumstances would I use "stress" techniques which do not only prolong the inevitable of a hierarchical process but also create stress and behavioural problems such as defense aggression.
• I take the pace of the rabbits on a case by case basis, allowing them adequate time to have moved through the main bonding stages and be stable and strong enough before going home. This could take many weeks or many months depending on whether there are behavioural issues needing worked on.
• Behavioural reports are sent and along with video footage and photos explaining and interpreting the rabbits behaviour throughout the process. The owner is also educated and given a much deeper insight into their rabbits behaviour and dynamic so that they can better understand the communication between their rabbits.
• A specific plan is created for the owners to take home with their rabbits and support is given as much as possible once they go home to help the rabbits continue to strengthen and grow together in their new pairings/groups. It is as much about the support post bond as it is about while they are with me, often more so.
Bringing your rabbits to myself as an external client for behavioural work or bonding is often a last resort for many owners. They may be referred to myself by their vet or find me online. When it comes to external cases (those who have their own rabbits and are not going through the adoption process and matching service with us at the rescue), I take on the most extreme cases, preferably rabbits that no one else has managed to bond or those classed by humans as "unbondable). If someone has a relatively "straightforward" case, I will often suggest that they approach a bonder elsewhere to send them off to, as my waiting list is very long and I am here to work with really difficult cases. I specialise in complex behavioural issues and large group bondings and would prefer not to take on many "easy" cases when there are those who have such problematic buns that they cannot find help for. When your buns come to me, they aren't coming for bonding, they are coming for full behavioural evaluation and a behavioural approach, not a bonding one. Much like the difference between dog behaviourists and trainers, behavioural work involves far more than just an "instant fix". As an owner, when choosing where and to who to send your rabbits, there are many different approaches and methods/experiences and it is up to you to find one that fits your "vibe". If sending your buns to me, you can guarantee they will go home "bonded" but you can also guarantee it won't be in a week. The average external client travels 5 hours to me for their case, with the furthest clients travelling to me from Hong Kong with their rabbits. I will take on cases of any size, any issue - the more complex the better!
If you have some buns you would like help with bonding, sometimes no matter how straightforward the case is, the owner is just too anxious or worried and can't cope watching the process, then reach out to people who bond and get some help and support. Some rescues will take them and help start things off for you. If you feel you can do it yourself at home, amazing! If you have the time, dedication, neutral space indoors and can understand watching their behaviour and be able to take a step back then you can absolutely help your rabbits to bond.
I also offer consultations and remote bonding, (also available via referral or online) for those who would like to do it themselves but need the knowledge and tools to understand their rabbits behaviour and what type of buns they have, how to step in or when not to. This is a great option for those with straightforward cases who would be perfectly capable of managing their own bonding, but just need the guidance and coaching through it.
Never feel that your rabbits are past the point of being able to be helped or bonded, this is never the case. Rabbit behaviour is extremely complex, but knowledge is power and your rabbits will always be happier bonded with their own kind. Rabbits are still so misunderstood and there are many misconceptions and myths that only put road blocks in your rabbits way. As always, think like a rabbit!
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Click the button below for information on booking in a behavioural consultation
Costings
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For bondings of 15+ please contact us for costings. This includes all food, etc. No need to bring anything other than vaccination cards and any ongoing medications. A ONE WEEK DEPOSIT WILL BE REQUIRED TO SECURE YOUR BOOKING, THIS IS NON REFUNDABLE. For more information or if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I go about booking?
A: For behavioural CONSULTATIONS, these can be booked directly on the website on the appointment page.
For SENDING AWAY bondings, email us at [email protected] and we will get you on our waiting list for bonding space. Give us as much info about your rabbits as possible. DO NOT BOOK A BONDING CHECK IN APPOINTMENT - THIS IS ONLY AVAILABLE TO THOSE WHO HAVE BOOKINGS WITH US.
Q: What is required before my rabbits can be bonded?
A: Your rabbits must be fully vaccinated and ALL rabbits must have been neutered (proof will be asked for) for a minimum of 8 weeks.
Q: Where will my rabbits be when they go for bonding?
A: Bondings are all done indoors in a specific room in the house set up for bonding which is temperature controlled and constantly supervised.
Q: What happens when my rabbits first arrive?
A: Rabbits are first fully health assessed and nails are clipped before bonding begins. They then go into pens side by side for 24 hours to observe behaviours and ensure all rabbits are relaxed and eating/pooping well.
Q: How long is the waiting list for a space?
A: Our average wait time for external bondings is 1-2 years. Occassionally we have spaces come up sooner and the waiting list is emailed if a cancellation comes up. Priority is given to our internal bondings (those adopting from us). Please contact us for updates on our waiting list.
Internal pair bondings (those adopting one companion for their rabbit from us and being matched up to their rabbit by us) can often be squeezed in within 6 months.
Q: What is included when my rabbits come for bonding?
A: Rabbits recieve full health assessments, behavioural analysis and grooming (clipping, nail trimming etc) before and throughout bonding. We also provide a large range of excellent top quality Scottish Hays (8 types) and fresh and dried herbs and forage from the rescue gardens and allotments and branches to chew. We use a variety of rabbit friendly litters for litter trays and water dispensers for drinking.
Q: Will I be updated throughout the process?
A: Bun parents are sent behavioural reports and photos and videos explaining their rabbits behaviour.
A: For behavioural CONSULTATIONS, these can be booked directly on the website on the appointment page.
For SENDING AWAY bondings, email us at [email protected] and we will get you on our waiting list for bonding space. Give us as much info about your rabbits as possible. DO NOT BOOK A BONDING CHECK IN APPOINTMENT - THIS IS ONLY AVAILABLE TO THOSE WHO HAVE BOOKINGS WITH US.
Q: What is required before my rabbits can be bonded?
A: Your rabbits must be fully vaccinated and ALL rabbits must have been neutered (proof will be asked for) for a minimum of 8 weeks.
Q: Where will my rabbits be when they go for bonding?
A: Bondings are all done indoors in a specific room in the house set up for bonding which is temperature controlled and constantly supervised.
Q: What happens when my rabbits first arrive?
A: Rabbits are first fully health assessed and nails are clipped before bonding begins. They then go into pens side by side for 24 hours to observe behaviours and ensure all rabbits are relaxed and eating/pooping well.
Q: How long is the waiting list for a space?
A: Our average wait time for external bondings is 1-2 years. Occassionally we have spaces come up sooner and the waiting list is emailed if a cancellation comes up. Priority is given to our internal bondings (those adopting from us). Please contact us for updates on our waiting list.
Internal pair bondings (those adopting one companion for their rabbit from us and being matched up to their rabbit by us) can often be squeezed in within 6 months.
Q: What is included when my rabbits come for bonding?
A: Rabbits recieve full health assessments, behavioural analysis and grooming (clipping, nail trimming etc) before and throughout bonding. We also provide a large range of excellent top quality Scottish Hays (8 types) and fresh and dried herbs and forage from the rescue gardens and allotments and branches to chew. We use a variety of rabbit friendly litters for litter trays and water dispensers for drinking.
Q: Will I be updated throughout the process?
A: Bun parents are sent behavioural reports and photos and videos explaining their rabbits behaviour.
